Wǔdìng, Yúnnán — I rode a bus from Kunming through lush green hillsides terraced with rice paddies and new development reminding me of stucco homes in anyplace, U.S.A.. We step off the bus into dry heat and the air is dust filled from construction nearby. I spot a horse standing in the hot sun with its muzzle attached to a feed bag; eat, it must.

I arrive at the house of the Lǐ (李) family. Zhāng Ayi retired from the State Forestry Administration, her husband Lǐ Shifu still works with the Grain Bureau, and their son, Lǐ Jiànhuī (李建辉) studies design. After setting our backpacks down, Zhāng Ayi wastes no time bringing us out to discover the mushrooms of Wǔdìng.

No sooner had we left the house by a few steps, a lady bearing a basket of Jīzòng Jūn (鸡纵菌, Termite Mushroom or Termitomyces albuminosus) cheerfully shows me her finds from the mountain that she is carrying to the mushroom market. I am impressed by the size of these mushrooms and have no idea what else awaits at the market.

I mentioned earlier that I stepped off the bus into a dusty city. As we turned off the road from Zhāng Ayi’s house, vibrant colors of mushrooms stunned my eyes. I am told many farmers comb through the mountains harvesting the mushrooms as they come into season. Here on Wǔkāng Lù (武康路, Wukang Street), the farmers gather to sell their harvests at this magical mushroom market.

Many of these mushrooms can only be found in Yunnan. Many mushrooms from Yunnan are exported to Japan in frozen or dried form, but the true luck is to have them available when fresh. I found myself living a rare moment.

Visually impressive prior to cooking the color away, Niú Gān Jùn (牛肝菌, Porcini mushroom) sliced reveals watercolor-hues of blues and greens.

What the Porcini loses in color, it does not lose in flavor. Fried quickly with dried chillies, garlic, and six tablespoons of the magic ingredient lard, Zhāng Ayi’s Gàn Jiāo Chǎo Niúgānjūn (干椒炒牛肝菌, Dry Chillies fried with Porcini Mushroom) is irresistible in taste and texture.

Zhāng Ayi painstakingly tears the Gānbājūn (干巴菌, Thelephora ganbajun) into small pieces and slices spicy red chillies, both stir-fried with walnut oil for the dish Qīngjiāo Chǎo Gānbājūn (青椒炒干巴菌, Stir-fried Ganbajun and Peppers). Gānbājūn mushroom has a woody flavor.

Xiǎo Chǎo Ròu (小炒肉, “Small Fried” Pork) is as simple as it gets; sliced pork, dried chillies, ginger, and scallion fried in walnut oil.

It looks like Guacamole, but it isn’t. Zhāng Ayi purées boiled baby soybeans with Sichuan peppercorns then stir-fries celery and green chilies to produce the unassuming Dòu Shēng (豆生, Healthy Beans).

The table is set with other savory fixings. Amongst the additional dishes is Làròu Chǎofàn (腊肉炒饭, Smoked Bacon Fried Rice) with làròu (腊肉, smoked then dried bacon) and cán dòu (蚕豆, broad beans), kidney beans stewed with làròu, a side of fried sliced làròu – are you sensing a theme here? The good thing is that beans and mushrooms are very healthy, however it’s hard to note how beneficial they are when fried with salted pork and lard. The flavors fit well within my favorites and Zhāng Ayi’s infectious smile paired with the comforts of pork, mushrooms and beans lend the sense of family I need while being this far away from mine. As a parting gift, Zhāng Ayi gives each member of my team Yóu Jīzōng (油鸡枞, Fried Termite Mushroom). Bringing back a taste of my trip to my husband and friends, is like dreaming and waking up with proof it was real.

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