Puji Zhen, CHINA – In a little village on the outskirts of Zhangqiu, Song Ayi walks a dirt road pointing to various plants and spices found in Chinese dishes. Sichuan pepper (Huajiao) grows on a tree as little green berries that turn red when dried in the sun. Chinese Toon towers over us while Song Ayi explains only the spring’s new leaves are used in cooking. I feel a warm and slightly painful sensation coming from my right elbow; I am exposed to the elements of the countryside and have been stung by an insect.
We pass fruit orchards and walk upon broken pavement until we enter the courtyard home of Mapei’s grandmother and uncle, Ma Shushu.
A grapevine and rows of vegetables are neatly tended in the center of the courtyard. Mapei’s grandmother sits near me and speaks a dialect I am unable to understand but Mapei translates. Her 88 year old grandmother dropped out of school in the 4th grade and sketches her name in Fantizi (traditional Chinese characters) against the palm of her hand.
Smiling as though equally entertained to impart her story, she removes her right shoe and her hand follows the shape of her little foot. It isn’t until I notice the pointed toes that I realize she is sharing with me the story behind her bound feet She explains her feet used to be smaller but have relaxed a bit since they were unbound. It hurts to walk but she manages to walk the narrow levies between the rows of vegetables and tend her garden.
Mapei’s Uncle serves us Tie Guan Yin tea and I am curious about two holes flanking the doors.
He explains the house is over one hundred years old and used to belong to a rich landowner. A large cylindrical piece of wood was placed behind the doors for safety. The barrier no longer exists, but at the entrance into the courtyard are two large red steel doors.
Ma Shushu and Song Ayi commence the cooking in the kitchen so I follow and begin my lessons. The kitchen window and door face the garden and is a separate building from the living room, bedroom, garden shed and toilet. Mapei’s father gathers young lettuce leaves from the garden and her grandmother removes the roots. Ma Shushu prepares all the dishes on an electric plate, like his brother preparing more than three dishes I asked for; he prepares 10.
One of my favorite dishes from the afternoon are the fried peanuts (Youjia Huashengmi); so simple yet so delicious! Ma Shushu’s son visited recently bearing black peanuts and wild pork meat, both of which are used for today’s meal. Ma Shushu mixes the black peanuts with red ones and fries them on low heat for 15 minutes then adds salt. When they cool they are a toasty and savory side I can’t stop eating.
During our meal, I learn to tell Ma Shushu “Yong xin! 用心!” meaning he used his heart in all his efforts. He replies explaining, “We knew each other in a past life and despite our distance we will meet each other again in this lifetime.” (有缘千里来相会。Yǒu yuán qiān lǐ lái xiāng huì.) The warmth and hospitality the Ma family continue to give endears me to the day. From the country setting to the smiles from the family, I feel like I have found a little Tuscany in China.
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